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General Tips for Traveling in Italy:
Here are a few tips I wish I’d known before visiting Italy:
Google isn’t always accurate - We arrived at several stores, restaurants, and cafes that Google listed as “open,” only to find them closed or out of business.
Same goes for gas stations — they may appear on the map but not exist in reality.
Siesta time - Between 3:00 PM and 7:00 PM, restaurants close, and towns empty out, especially in smaller towns. This happens less in major cities like Rome, but even there, I encountered it.
ZTL (Zona Traffico Limitato) - The historic centers of towns are restricted to vehicles with special permits. If you see a sign with "ZTL," check if it says "Ativa" (active, no entry allowed) or "Non Ativa" (entry allowed). Entering a ZTL area when it’s active can lead to a hefty fine of at least €100.
Getting around
To explore this region, renting a car is essential, as public transportation is not very accessible. A trip that combines driving and stopping at various towns, beaches, and points of interest definitely requires the flexibility of having your own vehicle. We arrived in Puglia from Naples, where we rented our car, and returned it in Bari before flying to our next destination. Car rentals in Italy can be pricey, with costs increasing the closer you book to your trip, so it’s best to reserve at least two weeks in advance if possible.
Tip: Download the Easypark app, which works in most of Italy and is very user-friendly, especially in city centers and beaches. Almost everywhere we went had organized parking, and in most places, the app was accepted.
Southern Puglia, Italy
When researching recommended routes in Puglia, it usually boils down to a circular route around the heel of Italy. The region isn't large, and if you're like me and enjoy taking your time and not rushing between attractions, 7–8 days is the perfect amount of time to fully explore Puglia. It's enough to feel like you've really gotten to know the area. I divided the trip into two parts, dedicating the first half to the northern area and another four days to the southern part.
The southern region of Puglia is known for its beautiful beaches with crystal-clear turquoise waters. Most of the recommended beaches are concentrated on the eastern coast, relatively close to one another, so you can visit 2–3 beaches in a day. In southern Puglia, we stayed in one hotel and used it as a base for day trips around the area. It’s best to choose a hotel in the central southern region and use it as a hub. Travel times are quite short, making southern Puglia ideal for a "star-shaped" trip.
Recommended Itinerary for Southern Puglia:
Day 1 – Arrival from northern Puglia to Lecce
Day 2 – Eastern Beaches: Torre di Roca Vecchia, Grotta della Poesia, Le Due Sorelle
Day 3 – Drive south along the eastern coastline from I Faraglioni di Sant'Andrea to Santa Maria di Leuca with stops at Cala dell'Acqua viva and Ponte Ciolo
Day 4 – The western side: Visit Gallipoli and Punta della Suina Beach
Accommodation
We stayed at Furnirussi Tenuta, a five-star hotel that was formerly a farm with a fig orchard that still exists today. We chose this hotel because of its relatively "remote" location, purposely looking for a special, quiet place to disconnect. The hotel is stunning, and it's undoubtedly one of the top choices in terms of "value for money," at least from my personal experience. The breakfast was wonderful, the hotel’s restaurant is high-end, and the service was excellent. In the center of the hotel is a lake-like pool, and the peace and tranquility of the surroundings are simply addictive.
Restaurant: Sinòdia – A highly recommended restaurant in the southern region of Puglia. This romantic eatery is about a 20-minute drive from the hotel and offers amazing local cuisine. Reservations are necessary.
Lecce
Lecce is the largest city in southern Puglia, Italy, serving as a cultural and leisure center, making it very touristy. Many travelers choose to stay in Lecce because it also offers nightlife and evening entertainment. Lecce is famous for its Baroque buildings and its Roman amphitheater in the city center.
As mentioned earlier, we stayed outside the city but visited Lecce for lunch one day. Based on a general recommendation, avoid arriving in Lecce during midday. Besides the intense heat, the city was deserted, and most restaurants and shops were closed.
Restaurant: Alex – After a short stroll, we were lucky to find that despite it being 3 p.m., this restaurant was open. I highly recommend visiting it even if you're not staying in Lecce. They serve fish and seafood dishes in an upscale atmosphere.
Beach: Torre di Roca Vecchia
A rocky beach with a cliff above it. The turquoise water and stunning views are breathtaking. There are a few entry points to the water, but it’s not the most comfortable place to sit for long periods. We took a dip and then moved on.
Beach: Grotta della Poesia
A short walk from Torre di Roca Beach lies one of the most well-known spots in the region—a natural cave or sinkhole over the sea. You can either jump in or walk down to the water. Entrance is subject to a small fee, with no time limit. We visited in the middle of the day, and it was crowded.
Beach: Le Due Sorelle
The name means "Two Sisters," named after the two giant rocks in the sea that have become this beach's iconic landmark. Unlike the previous two beaches, this one is a proper sandy beach (!) with sun loungers and restaurants. We spent a few hours here; the water was pleasant and beautiful. The viewpoint of the rocks is located at the southern end of the beach, a five-minute walk up a short trail.
Beach: I Faraglioni di Sant'Andrea
A rocky beach with a giant, beautiful rock in the water that resembles a large white arch against the backdrop of turquoise waters. There are several easy access points to the water, and you can spend a few relaxing hours here. Note that the "prettier" hours to visit are in the morning since the sun shifts in the afternoon, casting a shadow over the rock, which dulls the water's unique color.
Beach: Cala dell'Acqua viva
A relatively small bay with stunningly beautiful water. We arrived at midday, and the place was full of sunbathers and swimmers spread out on the surrounding rocks. There’s a kiosk and bar where you can buy refreshing cocktails and snacks.
Otranto
Otranto is a large, central city in the southeastern part of Puglia. It boasts a beautiful promenade and sandy beaches, a giant fortress, and an old city full of shops, restaurants, and bars. In the evening, the city comes alive with people. I recommend walking along the promenade to take in the beauty of the old town.
Restaurant: Laltrobaffo – Located in the heart of Otranto’s old city, this restaurant serves a variety of fresh fish and seafood. Local dishes with a twist.
Beach: Ponte Ciolo
A small bay with a bridge running over it. The beach mostly consists of concrete, which isn’t very comfortable for sitting. Therefore, I recommend stopping here for photos only.
Santa Maria di Leuca
A town at the southernmost point of Puglia. It’s not particularly attractive and doesn’t have many standout attractions, though it does offer pleasant sandy beaches and a promenade full of restaurants, making it a nice stop for a few hours if you're looking to spend a day at the beach.
Beach: Punta della Suina
The only beach we visited on the western side of Puglia. There’s a designated area with umbrellas you can rent for a fee by booking in advance or upon arrival. The area without umbrellas lacks sand, and part of it was quite dirty, making it less pleasant for a stay. There’s a large, organized paid parking lot at the entrance to the beach, and several beach clubs where you can reserve a spot ahead of time.
Gallipoli
A large and well-known port city on the western side of Puglia. I’d heard a lot about Gallipoli and how many tourists choose it as their base for a star-shaped trip. It has a beautiful old town, plenty of restaurants and souvenir shops, a promenade, and a sandy beach. You can definitely spend a fun day here.
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