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General Tips for Traveling in Italy That I Wish I Knew Sooner:
Google isn't always accurate - Surprisingly, we often found places (stores, restaurants, cafes) listed as "open," only to discover they were closed or no longer existed.
Gas stations too - Some stations show up on the map, but they might not exist in reality.
Siesta time - From around 3 PM to 7 PM, restaurants are closed, and towns seem deserted. This is mostly true for small towns but can also happen in bigger cities like Rome.
City centers and ZTL - Many town and city centers restrict vehicle access to those with a special permit. If you see a sign that says "ZTL," and it reads "Ativa," that means no entry. If it says "Non Ativa," you can enter freely. Be careful—entering a ZTL during restricted hours could result in a fine of at least €100.
Puglia Region - Italy’s Hidden Gem
Puglia forms the "heel" of Italy's boot. It's not a highly touristed area, but it's gaining popularity and still feels untouched by the masses. That’s what makes it the perfect destination for a quieter trip, less crowded with tourists.
Getting Around
To explore this region, you’ll need to rent a car, as public transportation is sparse. A road trip, stopping in small towns, beaches, and scenic points, requires the flexibility of having your own vehicle. We arrived in Puglia from Naples, where we rented a car. After the trip, we returned it in Bari, from where we flew to our next destination. Car rentals in Italy can be expensive, and the closer you are to your trip, the higher the cost, so book at least two weeks in advance if possible.
Pro Tip: Download the Easypark app. It's widely used across Italy and is very convenient for parking in city centers and near beaches. Almost everywhere we went had designated parking areas, and you could use the app in most places.
Northern Puglia
The primary focus here is driving between towns and points of interest. There’s a lot to see, so we split our days between two to three towns each day. Plan your accommodations ahead, but remain flexible. You could theoretically stay in one central town and use it as a base for day trips, but we chose to sleep in a new place each night to experience different towns in northern Puglia, even in the evenings. We booked most of our accommodations through Booking.com one or two days in advance and didn’t face any availability issues, though it’s important to note that we traveled in September, at the end of the season, so there were significantly fewer tourists than in the summer.
Recommended Itinerary for Northern Puglia:
Day 1: Drive from Naples with a stop in Matera
Day 2: Trani + Bari
Day 3: Alberobello + Polignano a Mare
Day 4: Monopoli + Ostuni
Matera
Though technically not part of Puglia, Matera lies halfway between Naples and Puglia. Matera is an ancient, unique city made up entirely of ancient caves called “Sassi,” which were used as dwellings. Matera is considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe, dating back tens of thousands of years, likely to the prehistoric era. In the mid-20th century, Matera made headlines when a journalistic investigation exposed the dire living conditions of its residents, who were still living in these ancient caves under terrible conditions of poverty.
You can explore Matera in half a day. The main activity is wandering through the alleyways of the Sassi and the old city. There are a few viewpoints, the first one being right at the entrance to the old town (you won’t miss it).
One must-do recommendation is a visit to Casa Noha. This interactive museum offers several videos showing the history of Matera as you walk through a cave house. It’s a great place to start before delving into the Sassi.
Trani
We didn’t originally plan to visit Trani, but after waking up to a particularly rainy morning in Polignano a Mare, we decided to head north to escape the gray clouds. Trani is a picturesque seaside town in northern Puglia on the Adriatic Sea. It’s known for its white church on the sea and the large fortress overlooking it. The town boasts a beautiful promenade lined with restaurants, bars, and shops. I recommend walking through the old town’s alleyways and stopping for a cocktail by the sea.
Bari
Bari, a 50-minute drive south of Trani, is the largest city in the Puglia region and is considered the second most important economic center in southern Italy. It’s known for its port and university. Bari has an international airport, which makes it a hub for travelers.
The old town of Bari, located near the marina and promenade, is charming. The narrow streets are home to local women preparing the region’s traditional pasta, which you can buy directly from them. The city is full of restaurants and shops, and there’s a great shopping street with all the familiar brands. Bari also has a lively nightlife, with plenty of bars and restaurants filling up every evening, making it a great place to stay if you want a more urban vibe.
Mastro Ciccio Restaurant
One of the trendiest spots in Bari, drawing in crowds who are willing to wait in line. The restaurant specializes in sandwiches, with the signature dish being octopus with burrata served in a black bun. The ingredients are fresh, the burrata is perfect, and the octopus is cooked just right. It’s a fast-food-style place—order at the counter and then sit down. Highly recommended for lunch.
Alberobello
Alberobello is one of the most famous and touristy towns in Puglia, known for its “trulli” houses built in the 14th century. These small stone houses were originally built to be easy to dismantle in case of government inspections. Today, many of these trulli have been converted into shops and restaurants, but Alberobello remains the heart of the area, with over 1,000 trulli still standing.
We chose to spend the night in Alberobello, which allowed us to explore the town early in the morning before the tourist crowds arrived, giving us a chance to wander through its narrow, picturesque streets.
Restaurant Recommendation Primi di Puglia – Pasta Experience
A great restaurant in Alberobello. We didn’t have a reservation but luckily found a table since we arrived late. The menu features local pasta dishes with seafood, meat, or vegetarian options. Try to get a table with a view of the kitchen, where you can watch the pasta being prepared live.
Polignano a Mare
If you’ve Googled “Puglia,” one of the first images to pop up is likely the beach in Polignano a Mare. This is a well-known and highly touristy beach town about half an hour’s drive south of Bari, popular with tourists from Italy and around the world. Besides strolling through the town and visiting the famous viewpoint overlooking the beach, I recommend spending some time relaxing on the beach with a cold beer. Note that the beach isn’t sandy, so it’s a good idea to bring something comfortable to sit on.
Tip: There are no bars or restaurants on the beach itself, so grab snacks and drinks beforehand if you want them.
Restaurant Recommendation: Osteria del Caroseno
A special restaurant located about a 20-minute drive from Polignano a Mare. It offers local dishes with a chef’s touch, making it perfect for a romantic dinner. I recommend sitting outside.
Monopoli
Monopoli is one of the lesser-known towns in the region. It’s a fishing port where fishermen sell their catch directly from the boat to buyers waiting on the dock. It’s not very touristy and can even feel a bit too quiet at times. We passed through Monopoli in the early afternoon, so I don’t think we got the full experience of the town’s character.
Gelato Recommendation: Gasperini – Gelateria dal 1936
While it’s not hard to find good gelato in Italy, this was one of the best we had.
Ostuni
Ostuni is known as “The White City” due to the whitewashed houses and walls that surround the old town. Perched on a hill, Ostuni is visible from afar as you drive towards it. The town is beautiful—so beautiful, in fact, that it’s very touristy and well-known. Ostuni is filled with restaurants, shops, and charming corners. The old town is well-preserved and maintained. Even in the evening, the streets and hangout spots are packed, making Ostuni a great place to stay in the area.
Restaurant Recommendation: Osteria Ricanatti
A small chef restaurant with only a few tables and amazing food. The menu features local dishes, but nothing like you’ve tried before until you’ve come to this restaurant.
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